Lavender Propagation (Part 3): Care and Transplanting

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Your starts should be in their seed tray for approximately 4-6 weeks until you transplant them to larger pots.

It’s best to do the next step before you water, when your starts have dry soil.

6 Replies to “Lavender Propagation (Part 3): Care and Transplanting”

  1. Lavender Care: When and where to plant? – Lavender Connection

    […] starts from your local nursery, or you tried your hand at propagating (read: parts one, two, and three of our Lavender Propagation blog series) you have new lavender starts that you’re ready to plant! […]

  2. Dana LaPointe

    Which liquid B fertilizer do you use?

    1. Rebecca Olson[ Post Author ]

      Honestly, we use whatever is on the shelf at the local nursery. I’ve also read a few scientific articles that say Vitamin B hasn’t been proven to actually help, though I *feel* like it helps. Maybe my wishing is making it so? I also have been reading up on the use of hydrogen peroxide to aid with root growth (this isn’t a vitamin/fertilizer, but the extra oxygen molecule is helpful for roots – this occurs naturally as H2O2 breaks down). The added benefit of using Hydrogen Peroxide is that it’s a natural fungicide, insecticide, etc. If you’re interested, you can find a lot of information about H202 on the internet!

  3. Erin

    Hi Rebecca, this is a great post- so informative! I’m wondering about overwintering in the greenhouse. How often do you water when the plants are dormant? Thanks! Erin

    1. Rebecca Olson[ Post Author ]

      Erin – I use the same test all year: I make sure the soil is dry down about 1/2″ before watering (and I always make sure the soil is well drained). In the winter the watering is less frequent because the air is colder and more moist, so it doesn’t evaporate as quickly. I probably water my cuttings every other day, 3″ pots 2-3 times a week, and my larger pots even less frequently. Also of note, I do keep the smaller lavender sitting on warm seed mats to help keep the roots warm when it gets really cold (though I don’t turn it up too high, since I want them to stay dormant) – just enough to give it a few degrees boost for those really chilly nights, so the roots don’t freeze. This isn’t an issue for the larger pots that have more soil acting as insulation from the edge of the pot – just the cuttings and 3″ pots. Hope that helps!

      1. Erin

        Super helpful!! Thank you!!

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